001 | Beginning Anew
10 min read
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Cacao-flavored bread with sunflower seeds
What is Companion Piece?
Hello and Welcome!
Companion Piece is penned by me, Nana Asase, and is an extension of my love for breadmaking in dialogue with all aspects of life. I hope to engage you in topics to inspire contemplation, lighthearted reverie and at times action through this monthly newsletter.
This past winter, I started baking sourdough bread mainly because I was tired of being disappointed each time I wandered to the bakery closest to me (a circa 15 minute walk), only to find that the bread I wanted was sold out. Channeling my disappointment into baking bread, something I had been curious about trying for some time, seemed like a natural way to resolve my frustration.
I didn’t expect to be viscerally moved by breadmaking. And even less so, to start examining my relationship to self through baking and consuming my own bread. But, it has been a deeply grounding activity that rewards me with sharper focus and awareness in the present moment, and lends itself beautifully to contemplation and introspection if I so choose. Making sourdough bread in particular, has also been intellectually stimulating and stirred my creativity in new ways. Mixing flour, water, salt, a cocktail of wild yeast & bacteria and then adding heat seemed so deceptively simple when I began this journey. Not only has it fed my curiosity about the alchemy that transforms basic ingredients into delicious crumbs, it has also sparked a desire to better understand the hyperlocal cultural, social and economic constructs that impact people’s access to nutritious and healthy bread in my Brooklyn neighborhood.
The idea of a market place in which high demand outpaces low supply is the most obvious place to begin when I think about my original frustration that got me into baking bread. But I know there is much much more to learn and unpack. I hope to use this newsletter as a vehicle to question simple concepts that explain away complex societal problems, especially around access to food. I also want to explore future realities in which more people (whether in my neighborhood or elsewhere) are making their own nutritious bread at low price points, if they so choose. Offering an alternative to what's available either at the farmer’s market or an artisanal bakery with some time investment. And lastly, I am interested in cultivating a space for reflection on bread that centers healthful nutrition and delightful flavors.
These concepts are what motivated me to start this newsletter, and I will keep coming back to them as we explore ideas around delicious, nutritious food, community and education together.
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Beginning Anew
I baked my first sourdough loaf three months ago, after gathering enough courage to delve into something new. Maurizio Leo’s blog, The Perfect Loaf, has been a wonderful companion that I often reference. I started with his Beginner’s Sourdough Bread, after following his instructions on how to create my own sourdough starter.
Perfectionism and an almost clinical approach to cleanliness in the kitchen nearly prevented me from venturing into breadmaking. It took me several weeks to “assemble the right tools” and put in place a system that wouldn’t turn my kitchen into a sticky mess before I even started baking bread. After a friend described her husband’s breadmaking and the sticky residue it left all over their kitchen, I became fixated on this rather undesirable fact. This was probably the biggest mental hurdle I had to overcome. I have no shame in admitting that I have incorporated cleaning rituals that add a significant amount of time and effort to my baking process, though I am sometimes filled with dread when I think of the task ahead. But those thoughts are quickly eclipsed by the desire to relax deeply into the process by giving it my full attention – and, moreover, to taste the delicious bread that awaits me in the end. My desire for perfection shows up when I start to refine or fine tune recipes. Somehow, that seems more acceptable to me, perhaps even delightful and creative.
Anyone who knows me personally will attest to how much pleasure I get from learning about, preparing and eating food – and bread is no different. I also get tremendous satisfaction pursuing meaning in the seemingly quotidian moments of life. This often happens when I am in a meditative state. In breadmaking, these two worlds mingle beautifully with each other and some of my other passions, and it has been an unexpected source of joy.
Over the past three months, I have leaned into the new ways of seeing and being that beginning something opens up, when we allow it. I am glad you’re here with an open mind and that we get to undertake this journey together.
Now, let's delve into this month's recipe.
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Rye, Spelt and Whole Wheat Bread
In the past few months, I have tried several recipes and developed two of my own from scratch. (The first one was a total disaster and the second was actually quite promising. I’ll revisit this topic in a future newsletter.)
For this first edition of Companion Piece, I am sharing my go-to rye, spelt and whole wheat recipe, which was developed by Maurizio Leo. I love it because of its strong, expressive flavor and texture profile. There are many variables that impact flavor, especially when making sourdough bread: flour, water, wild yeast & bacteria, temperature, proofing time and so on. And then there’s how the bread is received by your palette.
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Flavor and texture notes for this recipe
Hearty wheat flavor with notes of dairy. Tangy crumb with chewy, almost creamy texture and a firm crust. Smells toasted and sweet, with hints of honey.
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I use all organic, and wherever possible, locally sourced flour – my favorite being Farmer Ground Flour from grain grown and milled in the Finger lakes region of New York. I also use King Arthur’s bread flour. I am generally interested in recipes that use whole grains because of the nutritional value and complex flavor profile they produce. My pantry staples include whole wheat, whole spelt, whole rye, bread flour, and a variety of seeds.
A lot of what I’ve learned about baking sourdough bread so far is derived from the free resources Maurizio Leo provides on his blog. His recipes are well-written, technically sound and easy to follow. I generally try each new recipe at least twice. The first time, I usually follow the instructions without any deviation. I then make modifications I believe will yield a more enjoyable flavor profile for me, the second or third time around.
The recipe below has been adapted according to my taste and is meant for home bakers with a basic knowledge for making sourdough bread.
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Recipe for two loaves of bread
Levain
60g ripe sourdough starter, at 100% hydration
30g whole rye flour
30g bread flour
60g filtered spring water (78°F)
Autolyse
493g bread flour
233g whole spelt flour
208g whole wheat flour
52g whole rye flour
736g water (78°F)
Mix and let rest for 1 hour.
Add 164g of the ripe levain and 22g of salt to the dough. Mix and strengthen the dough using the ‘slap and fold’ technique for 10 minutes.
Bulk ferment for 3.5 hours with 3 ‘stretch and folds’ at 30 minute intervals.
Once bulk fermentation is complete, split the dough into two equal parts, pre-shape and let them rest for 15 minutes uncovered.
Shape as desired, either a bâtard or a boule work well, and transfer to a proofing basket.
Cover and proof in the fridge at 34°F for 24 hours.
Once proofing is complete, bake in a preheated dutch oven at 455°F for 20 minutes with a cover, to generate steam. Remove the lid and bake for an additional 30 minutes. Let cool on an elevated rack for at least two hours and enjoy!
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Happenings
Starting in April, I will be hosting bi-monthly online gatherings to connect people who are enthusiastic or curious about making sourdough bread. We'll discuss tools, techniques and learn from each other's breadmaking stories.
The first get-together is on Sunday, April 16 at 3:00pm - 3:45pm (New York time). Simply respond to this message to RSVP and receive a virtual link to join. Our topic for the month will be Beginner Sourdough Bread Baking Tools.
Curiosities
Why the name Companion Piece?
At a recent dinner party, I learned from another guest that the word companion means a person with whom one shares or eats bread. I quite liked this surprising revelation and later came across this wonderful site, which breaks down the etymology beautifully. Here is a direct quote:
“Etymologically, a companion, denotes a friendship formed around bread. A companion denoted one’s ‘messmate with whom one habitually eats meals’: <com +pane+ion>. The bound base element <pane> has derived from Latin panis bread and the word itself via Old French. This Latin root leads to pannier– initially a bread basket but extended to any large basket for provisions, and also pantry originally ‘a room or set of rooms in a large household in which bread and other provisions are kept’ (OED).”
As you may know, I studied literary criticism in my younger years, and in the world of literature, a companion piece is a (literary) work that complements another. The opportunity to tie this serendipitous discovery to another of my core interests was too hard to pass up :).
Thank you for reading this far and please share this newsletter with anyone you think might enjoy it!
And if you have any feedback, I would love to hear it. Just reply to this email.
Until next time . . .
-Nana
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Published on March 25, 2023
Copyright © 2023 Companion Piece, All rights reserved.
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© Nana Asase 2023. Images and words that appear on nanaasase.com may only be used with written permission from the author.
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